C2G / Cables to Go 27354 Cat5E UTP Solid PVC CMR-Rated Cable, White (1000 Feet/304.8 Meters)

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Price: $103.99 $94.80   

Product Feature

• CMR-rated for in-wall and conduit use; foot-marked cable in easy-to-use pull box
• 4-pair unshielded twisted pair (UTP) cable
• 24 AWG solid bare copper conductor
• High density polyethylene insulation, PVC jacket
• CM/CMR-Rated-rated for use in walls and conduit in ceiling

Product Description

With voice, data and security capabilities, our Cat5E bulk cable is ideal for network installation in your home, office, or on the entire campus. Foot-marked cable is packaged in an easy-to-pull box for easier installation. Meets or exceeds Cat5E specifications. 4-pair unshielded twisted pair (UTP) cable, 24 AWG solid bare copper conductor and made with high density polyethylene insulation, PVC jacket. CM/CMR-Rated-rated for use in walls and conduit in ceiling. Verified compliant with EIA/TIA standards by ETL and CSA-listed.

C2G / Cables to Go 27354 Cat5E UTP Solid PVC CMR-Rated Cable, White (1000 Feet/304.8 Meters) Review

I haven't purchased this cable, but I've installed cable professionally for years and have moved up to where I'm ordering data circuits for our company of 40,000+ employees, so I wanted to share a few tips for the lay person doing small installs or home installation. That, and I thought I'd make some notes for others while I'm looking for parts for my own home network.

There are higher quality standards beyond cat 5e, but unless you are running a larger professional grade network, Cat 5e is plenty. If you are doing a home network and money is tight, you could use Cat 5 or even Cat 3 cable. Cat 3 is technically voice telephone cable and lower quality and shouldn't be used for data cable, but if you're pinching pennies, it will get the job done.

- You can generally buy cable in 500' and 1000' rolls. When measuring the amount of cable you need, be sure to also count the 10' or so you'll have on both ends running up and down the walls.
- ***Run your longest runs first*** When you get to the end of a box, you'll be more likely to use the last little bit on a short run, where if you do your short runs first, you'll have a lot more waste ($$$).
- Try not to run your data cables parallel to electrical cables when going through the ceiling - the data cable will pick up interference...the longer the parallel run, the more interference, which means a possible decrease in performance. Try to stay about 36" or more away from electrical wires (running down a wall to a data jack shouldn't matter too much if you have no other options). Interference is a magnetic thing, and wooden studs do not really effect magnetic fields, so keep that in mind.
- The above also goes for fluorescent lights...they produce a LOT of electrical interference, especially as they get older.
- Patch panels and data jacks have two termination options, 568A and 568B. As long as you use the same standard on both ends, it does not matter which you use, although outside of federal buildings, typically the 568B standard is used the most.
- Leave a small service loop at the patch panel and a little slack at the jack - if your first attempt doesn't work, you'll need some slack to work with to terminate your patch panel or jack again. Also, be very careful when scoring the jacket cover to expose the cables inside. If you nick one of the wires, don't risk it, go another 1" to 1 " down the cable and try again. Cable is thin and if you nick the cable, it is easy to break the wire and not notice and end up with a faulty connection.
- Professionally, your cable run should be less than 328' (which works out to 100 meters). The 328' includes the patch cords at each end. A professional cable tester (such as Fluke meters) will automatically fail anything past 328', although connections past 328' will work...but the natural cable resistance and electrical interference from surrounding wire becomes more noticeable on longer runs. Most cable is marked in feet every 2', so it's easy to gauge your length.
- If you need to run much past 328', you may need to boost your signal. A cheap powered hub can often do the trick - although you may need to check the hub to see if you need to wire one side as a cross over cable.

Mounting bracket - there are a ton of options when it comes to brackets for these types of low voltage brackets. Over the years my favorite was the MP1P, similar to the one below (also the least expensive on Amazon in this class of bracket at the time I wrote this). If you look closely there are four tiny raised spots on the corners of the bracket. Place the front side of the bracket against the wall, preferably lining it up with a small level roughly 18" from the floor at the bottom of the bracket, and push where these four raised spots are located. Pushing on these spots leaves a tiny indentation in the sheetrock which are your guide to cutting the hole in your wall for your outlet...just use the edge of your level or the edge of the bracket and draw your lines from point to point, and when you cut out the hole, barely include the lines in the cut and you will have a snug fit. There are ratcheting plastic backs that you cannot really see in the picture, but you can ratchet these tight with just your fingers. I suggest not using screws as often screws will just cause the small piece of sheetrock between the screw and the existing hole to break. Being plastic, there are not sharp edges to cut yourself or the cable, so it's a win-win there.
http://www.amazon.com/MP1P-Non-Metallic-Single-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B0076AYP1C/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1361315890&sr=1-13&keywords=mp1p

My favorite voice or data jack is HellermanTyton (one word). I used these for years and had no problems that I can recall, and they are about 25% cheaper than Levington jacks, and a midrange price. Many jacks (such as Levington) have non-flat bottoms so your jack will either need a little mount to stick the jack in while terminating the jack, or you will need to hold it and the non-flat bottom means the jack may roll while you punch down the wire, and take my word for it, it can make a nasty little cut on your hand when this happens. With the flat bottoms of the HellermanTyton jacks, once you have the wires laid into the jack, you can place it against the wall and since the bottom is flat, it will not leave indentations on the wall as you terminate the wires, and is less likely to roll if you hold it with your fingers.

If you are running voice, fax and data jacks, the voice jacks are typically the same color as your faceplate, and fax and data jacks are colored for easy recognition. If memory serves me well, I think typically faxes were blue and data jacks were orange or red.
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You will need a patch panel to terminate your cables at your router, cable modem, DSL modem etc. If you are doing a small installation, I'd suggest a 12 port patch panel similar to the one linked below. Once you mount the bracket, you can place the patch panel in the bracket in reverse and terminate the cables, then rotate the patch panel 180 degrees and mount it normally and attach your patch cords. The patch panel below was one of the lower priced at the time and had excellent reviews.
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